By Garcia Ni / MPA – February 12, 2025
A lively crowd, reminiscent of worker bees swarming toward a hive, moved through a cloud of dust toward a specific area in northern Myaing Township, Magway Region, on the morning of February 9.
The road buzzed with the honking of motorcycles and cars. Some people rode bullock carts, while others walked briskly, their footsteps filled with excitement. Their faces showed no signs of exhaustion—only joy.
Their destination was open farmland locally known as “Pauk Pin Kwin.” With the peanut and pigeon pea harvest season complete, the vast fields of the A-Nyar Region were left open, making them the perfect venue for a time-honored tradition—a horse and bullock cart race.
Vendors had already set up makeshift stalls along the roads, under clusters of palm trees, and beneath the shade of brewers’ acacia trees. The air was filled with the aroma of pickled fruit salads, grilled snacks, boiled corn, and ice pops. Some vendors sold beer, alcohol, cigarettes, and betel quid, adding to the festival-like atmosphere, reminiscent of a Burmese dance-drama celebration.
This traditional horse and bullock cart race was sponsored by a donor celebrating the success of his novitiation ceremony. Before the military coup, such races were a regular feature of village pagoda festivals and novitiation ceremonies. Villages would challenge each other in thrilling competitions, which also included “A-Thar Kya” (precision walking) events.
However, since the coup, these races have become rare, with only informal events like this one taking place. The highly disciplined “A-Thar Kya” competitions have largely faded away.
In horse racing, the first horse to cross the finish line at full gallop wins. Bullock cart racing involves a pair of oxen pulling a lightweight cart at high speed from start to finish. Interestingly, the losing side can request a rematch by swapping out one of their oxen, while the winning side must keep their original team.
Precision walking competitions (A-Thar Kya) require horses and oxen to maintain a strict four-beat gait without galloping. A panel of seven referees monitors the race, positioned along the track to ensure competitors maintain the required gait. The first to finish without errors wins.
A horse enthusiast explained, “The first 20 taung (about 30 feet) from the start is marked. Horses often gallop at the start, but within that first section, missteps don’t count. However, once they enter the marked area, they must maintain precise footwork.”
In oxen precision walking competitions, the right-side ox must maintain a steady, correct gait, while the left-side ox can move freely. If a mistake occurs, referees break a flag, signaling an error. If all competitors maintain a correct gait, the first to cross the finish line wins.
As the late winter sun climbed above the palm trees, thousands of spectators gathered. Some shaded themselves with bamboo hats and cloth-wrapped head coverings, while children roamed the fields eating ice pops and grilled snacks. Elders sat under trees, chatting in small groups as they waited for the races to begin.
Despite the large crowd, the races did not start until midday—betting on the horses was still ongoing.
The horse races were scheduled first. Spectators gathered around the competing horses, examining them closely before placing bets. The horses came from nearby villages, and those familiar with their past performances placed their wagers carefully.
Bettors typically placed wagers at odds like ten to seven (for example, if one side bet 100,000 kyats, the opposing side bet 70,000 kyats). Outside the official betting circle, wagers sometimes reached tens of millions of kyats.
Once the horses were brought to the track for a trial run, those resting in the shade rushed to the racing field. The horses were lined up at the starting point, but the large crowd often made it difficult to position them correctly.
Jockeys mounted their horses while handlers ensured the competitors were evenly aligned. Only when both horses were properly set did the referee signal the start.
As the horses burst from the starting line, the crowd erupted in cheers, filling the field with excitement. In some races, a horse that appeared to be leading suddenly fell behind and lost in the final moments.
A horse enthusiast laughed and explained, “The key is which horse crosses the finish line first. Some win by their chest, others by their head—it doesn’t matter. The jockey’s skill plays a big role, too. Arguments and even fights can break out at the finish line, sometimes escalating into knife fights or brawls.”
Lining up at the start of bullock cart races is less chaotic than horse racing. However, the skill of the cart driver is crucial. Bullock cart racing can be even more dangerous than horse racing—wheels may come off and hit spectators, or the oxen may charge into the crowd. Yet, despite the risks, the spectators remain unfazed.
When the races ended, the crowd dispersed, heading back to their respective villages. But the excitement was far from over—the performances of the horses, oxen, and jockeys would be the talk of the villages for days to come.
Editor – Ko San
Translator – Z
